Monday, August 23, 2010

Three in One

It was a long weekend in the British early summer of 1965. Rod and I drove up to the mountainous region of North Wales on the Friday night and camped at Little Willie's farm at the foot of Tryfan, in the Ogwen Valley. Although we had planned to wander up Yr Wyddfa the next day, and our starting point was over in the next valley involving a long drive around the end of the Glyders Range, the other two days would be spent in the Ogwen area and that’s why we’d set up camp at Little Willie’s farm.



Early on the Saturday morning we set off up the Pyg Track and over Crib Goch on our way around the Snowdon 'Horseshoe' (a horseshoe-shaped series of summits, each connected by a long rocky ridge). The summit of Crib Y Ddysgl was passed in great spirits and soon we’d arrived at the top of Yr Wyddfa. On that day the summit of Yr Wyddfa, the highest in England and Wales and better known by its more popular English name of Snowdon, was covered in thick cloud and it was very cold and windy.



Whilst having some lunch in the Summit Hotel, there was a sudden flurry of quiet excitement and, within seconds it seemed, we were roped in as members of a rescue team by Fred, a friend we'd met a few weeks previously when we'd given him a lift up from the south and had done a few climbs with. Now Fred was working in the Summit Hotel.



I recall taking Fred to one side and reminding him that Rod and myself were not experienced in the job of rescuing people. He, in return, had explained that Rod and I, along with two other lads, were the most experienced people in the hotel, due to the other patrons being tourists who had come up on the train just to look at the view, and that we must do our best to lend immediate assistance at the accident scene.



Rod and I joined the two other lads and I know that both of us were a bit scared and apprehensive at what we'd see and whether we'd be good enough to help. We’d known that there was every chance that we could get asked to help on a rescue one day, and had done a bit of basic training between ourselves. But this was the real thing and I was quite happy to stand back and let one of the other chaps take over if they were more experienced than myself.



Luckily for us - and the patient - the other two chaps were Rangers and had been out on a few rescues on the Yorkshire Moors. So, apart from not knowing the area very well, they knew a bit more of what to expect and do than Rod and I did. It was soon agreed that I would lead the little party to the accident scene and then we would all work together until an evacuation of the patient was affected.



With this plan in mind, we set off down the track.



Immediately below the summit of Yr Wyddfa, at the start of the Watkin Path descent, is a steep face. The Watkin Path zigzags down this face for the first few hundred feet before easing off at Bwlch Y Saethau. The path down the face is very loose and dangerous to the unwary.



A teacher had a number of lads in his care and had taken them up the top of Yr Wyddfa. Deciding to go down via the Watkin Path, and obviously no aware of the dangers, he'd let the lads run down the zigzag path. But one of them couldn't stop at the end of a zig (or was it a zag?) and went head first over a fifty foot cliff.



All we knew as we descended the path was that somebody had come up to the Summit Hotel with a message that help was needed for an accident. We couldn't see anything down there due to the thick cloud all around the summit.



We plodded on down, being careful not to hurry in our eagerness to help, then suddenly through the misty gloom, we could see them just below. There was only the teacher and the injured lad, what had happened to the other boys I never knew.



The lad was, miraculously to myself, still alive though very badly injured. I can't remember what all the injuries were, what stunned me was the state of his face. He had landed on his arms and face as he hit the ground and his face was absolutely smashed in. I won't go into details of what his face looked like, but it made the four of us shake like mad with shock, and I remember going very weak at the knees before I could pull myself together.



Our plasters and bandages wouldn't have even started to help him, but we tried to scotch the worst bleeding as best we could. The lad was conscious and seemed to know what had happened.



As usual, once there's something to do I soon forgot my apprehension and fear. As the path was very steep we sent Rod half way back up between us and the summit to help pass messages on. He would have a rest up there while we assessed the situation and wrote a note regarding our requirements, etc. Then one of us would take the note as far as Rod and he, being fairly fresh, would carry it on to the Summit Hotel. The first messenger would carry on up slowly as back-up in case Rod had an accident. We thought this would be a bit safer than two lads trying to hurry up the whole way together. Rod’s waiting place was still within earshot of us so I could call him down if needed.



As we were writing out the note a platoon of army guys came upon the scene from below. Their officer offered the help of his men to carry the lad up to the top, but we suspected back injuries and refused to let him be moved. He then offered to spread his men in a line between us and the summit so that it would be easier to pass the message up. We thought this would be very handy as we might have had to pass on more than one message, so agreed.



The note contained a report of the lad’s injuries and how he'd fallen fifty feet head first. It urgently requested immediate evacuation for him off the mountain to the hospital. Meanwhile, we were also making the patient as comfortable and warm as possible.



We gave the note to the army officer and, to our amazement, he didn't take it up to the next soldier, but proceeded to shout the instructions up at him from the note. The wind was roaring noisily all around and we suggested that he pass the note up to his No. 2 and his No. 2 could pass it on up to No. 3, etc. But he scoffed at the idea and told us that his soldiers had been trained to do this.



Foolishly we allowed him to carry on and for the next ten minutes we could hear the 'A for apples,' 'B for bakers', 'C for Charlies, etc. going up the face and out of hearing range.



Have you ever heard of Chinese Whispers???



We'd covered the lad with all our spare clothing and water-proofs. The teacher sat at the lad’s head, one of the rangers laid along his left side for extra warmth and the other laid along his right side. I covered his legs as best I could by lying above them so as my open shirt and jacket hung down each side of them and I was supported by my elbows and slightly bent knees. Then we settled down to wait for the main rescue group. I didn't know that my position would have to be kept for four and a half hours of pure agony. Rod stayed dutifully where we'd sent him. He knew we'd get a message to him if he was needed.



Eventually Fred, at the Summit Hotel, received a message from the army guys that had supposedly been passed up from us. In the confusion, wind-noise and excitement the message had changed by the time it reached him. The message he received told of a fifteen feet fall, few injuries, and evacuate when possible for a check-up at hospital. Fred passed the message on down to the Rescue Center.



If I recall right, the Rescue Center had two other (though minor) rescues to deal with at the same time, and a RAF Rescue helicopter had been called in. Having now been informed that there was no immediate urgency to rescue our lad (thanks to the bungled message), it was decided that they’d attend to the other accidents first in the hope that the cloud had lifted around us by the time they’d been affected. That would enable the rescuers to use the helicopter to reach us instead of them having to walk up from where the helicopter would be forced to drop them below the cloud base, therefore saving their energies for any further accidents in the day.



Meanwhile, Rod stayed at his post, the army guys were having a good time shouting at each other, Fred got on with his work at the hotel, and us four tried to keep the patient as warm and as happy as possible.



We found out that his name was David and he was 16 years old. We told him of adventures we'd had. We sang songs and recited ditties. We described our respective towns, families and jobs, etc. and, most important, exuded confidence and knowledge. We were all aching through laying on the lumpy rocks and my elbows and knees were sheer agony. I didn't want to ask the lads to rotate positions just in case David's body temperature went down even slightly as we moved.



David turned out to be a very courageous young lad and, in spite of his terrible injuries, managed to smile a few times through his so-badly smashed face.



During the long wait I was far from the great hero I'd planned to be in such a situation. I’d felt extremely sorry for David lying there all smashed up, I’d felt sorry that it should happen to such a young lad, and I’d had to fight hard with myself to hold back the tears that kept trying to burst from my eyes. Through my job as a lorry driver I’d already seen quite a few horrific sights at traffic accidents, and fortunately the police and ambulance men had always been quickly on the scene to deal with the situations. But up to that time I hadn’t seen anybody of David’s age so badly injured. To see that young lad so horribly smashed had seemed very unfair to me, and the remoteness of the cloud-covered, windswept, grey and forlorn mountainside hadn’t helped. Nevertheless, I’d fought down my emotions and had tried to keep a brave face, not necessarily so much that I didn't want to be laughed at and scorned by the others, but just as much because David would have probably felt more demoralized at seeing one of his ‘rescuers’ crying!



The two minor rescues were affected with no trouble, but the cloud still lay low on Yr Wyddfa where we were. Finally the rescuers had to fly up to just below the cloud and walk the rest of the way up to us. The helicopter pilot flew back down to flat ground near the road in the Nant Gwynant valley to wait for the leader to call him back again. After four and a half hours from when we’d reached the patient, the rescue group arrived.



We were all very cold , tired and stiff, but the patient was still in good spirits. A few groups had come up the path and stopped for a look before moving on up into the mist above. And each time we’d probably all felt a bit more lonely as they passed on by to leave us glancing back down into the gloom and wondering when the Rescue Group would come.



Due to the roaring of the wind we hadn’t heard the helicopter come up into the valley below us. I was almost at my wits end with the agony in my elbows and knees when I saw another group of people coming up through the mist. They were not like the usual noisy groups that staggered up the hills, this group had a quiet confidence about it. Then I saw the litter and knew pure relief - it was the Rescue Group at last!



Among the group were Mr. Briggs (who is a rescue leader legend in his own time), a Doctor, the Nant Gwynant Ranger’s daughter, and a number of other famous Welsh Mountain Rescue names. They quickly took charge and the patient was soon heavily bandaged, wrapped up warm, and strapped into the litter ready for the trip down the mountain.



Mr. Briggs wasn't very happy with us as the accident was far more serious than he'd been led to believe. We showed him the original note and explained what had happened with the army chaps. He was very nice about it, though suggesting that maybe we should stick to the correct procedure of delivering notes in the future - which we heartily agreed to do. The army chaps had quickly moved off.



In all fairness to the British (and any other) Army, I personally didn’t look to see if the soldiers were from any recognised regiment. They could have been from a crack regiment, or they could have been from some village Territorial Army sub-group. The fact is that we should have stuck to the tried and tested procedure - which we didn’t!



I climbed up the track a bit and called for Rod to come down, then we both rejoined the rescue group. They had just started down and we all took it in turns to man-handle the litter and its patient down the mountainside. Finally, upon entering Cwm Llan we came out from the cloud and could see the valley stretching away below us.



Mr. Briggs called up on the two-way radio and soon we could see the helicopter coming up the cwm just under the cloud while the rescue group quickly prepared the stretcher for lifting. Then the helicopter came right up beside the mountain, lifted the litter and patient up off the path and whisked him away down to Bangor hospital.



Through all this final activity I'd been too busy to worry about those tears that had been threatening to flood my eyes. But again they threatened - this time for the happiness that I felt now that young David was on his way to better help than we were able to give him.



It was also very moving to see the efforts that those rescue lads and RAF Rescue helicopter crews made on behalf of injured (and dead) climbers. It was wonderful to see the RAF boys wave thanks to us as they started to fly away and to receive the thanks of the rescue team.



After the 'copter had gone it was relatively quiet and we all split up in small groups as we descended the path to the valley. Rod and I were invited to afternoon tea by the Ranger’s daughter, and the others went their ways at the bottom. The Ranger’s family looked after us very well, then the daughter gave us a lift back to our car.



That evening we all met again at the Gorphwysfa Hotel, where Rod and I had began our mountain walk that morning, and had one humdinger of a party. Once more we were all thanked for our efforts, and I recall that Rod and I had felt so very proud to have shared the day, and the final triumph, with those folk. Finally, after swapping addresses with a few of them, we headed back to our tent, well content with our exciting day. I was shocked yet somehow elated at some of the sights and emotions I'd experienced during the emergency. It certainly made me more aware of how easy it was to lose a guy if you weren't careful.



The next morning we had a lie in then decided to saunter up an easy route on my favourite mountain, Tryfan. We were wandering up towards Heather Terrace when, at about 2250 feet, we heard what sounded like a call for help above the noise of the wind. On many previous occasions we'd heard similar sounds, only to find, upon seeking out the sound, that it was nothing more than the bleating of a sheep or goat being distorted as the sound was carried to us by the wind. Having realised that the bleat of a sheep or goat and a call for help could sound very much the same on windy hillsides, Rod and I had long decided to investigate any sounds that we couldn't identify. On this occasion it was lucky that we did.



We followed the sound and soon realised that, this time, it was a call for help. As we rounded a shoulder of rock, there, some distance in front of us, were two girls standing on a small ledge about forty feet above the Terrace, clinging to the rock-cliff for dear life. One was fairly composed, but the other was hysterical. Nobody else was in sight!



Rod and I climbed up an easy line at the side of the cliff, yelling encouragement to the two girls. We quickly set up a belay and I moved out along the ledge. I placed a couple of sling-behind-rock running belays (climber’s safeguard against long falls) to protect us on the way back and reached the hysterical girl first.



As there was no easy way off the ledge for a non-climber at the other end of the rock-face, the other girl was trapped by her more terrified companion from getting back past and going for help. She'd been frightened to get too near in case her friend fell and took them both.



The hysterical girl grabbed at me with the strength of fear in her muscles and it took all my own strength to hang on, but I finally managed to get a sling around her waist and hook her to the main rope. Then, by keeping her between myself and the rock, we inched our way back to Rod and safety. The other girl had been very brave and had waited patiently while we’d helped her friend, but she burst into tears as I reached her on my second trip out along that ledge. Nevertheless, we soon had her off with no trouble.



The girls had soon recovered and I’d asked them how they'd come to be there. They told us that they'd started up with some 'expert’ mountaineers, who'd finally led them out on the ledge. When the girls couldn't move on for their fear, they'd been abandoned by those blokes. I couldn't understand why the blokes had taken them out across the wall in the first place as there was a perfectly good path nearby and it has remained a mystery to me ever since. I must admit that wild horses wouldn't have dragged me out on that tiny ledge without a rope at the time.



I knew that we’d have to take the girls back down as there were still some spots where it would be easy for them to lose the path and get into trouble again. But, when I informed the pair of my decision, and in spite of their frightening ordeal, both girls said that they were still very keen to reach the summit if it was at all possible, and if there was and easy path. Knowing how I’d originally been given such a wonderful start to my adventurous life (see my story ‘In Memory of Mr. Greer’) and having the desire to do the same for others, coupled with a feeling that Rod and myself should make every effort to show these girls that there were some trustworthy climbers, I decided to abandon our plans to climb and take them on up. We all reached the summit and arrived back down safely.



Monday, our last day of that long weekend and we'd agreed to take the girls up to the summit of Yr Wyddfa after they'd expressed their fierce interest. Having already had the epic up there on the previous Saturday, Rod and I weren't excitingly keen. We hadn't really expected them to turn up and had tentatively made alternative arrangements to climb on the Milestone Buttress of Tryfan.



At the appointed time arranged, the girls arrived with their parents, who were on holiday with them. The parents were introduced, and Rod and I were thanked by them for helping the girls the day before. They told us how the girls had been looking forward to going on that holiday for months and how they had only met the mountaineering ‘experts’ a few days earlier. They also said that they were pleased the girls had now met someone safe who would take them to a couple of summits. Well, we weren't the safest nor best by far, but we couldn't have been any worse than those so called 'experts', so we took a bit of praise, offered to take the four parents with us (they declined) and Rod, the two girls, and myself set off.



We drove round to the Gorphwysfa Hotel, left the usual note (who we were, where we were going, etc.) on our dashboard in the car and walked off up the Miners Track. This track is very scenic, going right up inside the 'Horseshoe', past lakes and old mine workings with steep cliffs and hills all around. It finishes up a steep slope actually called the Zigzags (not to be confused with the zigzagging track of the Watkin Path), then a last pleasant slog to the summit.



The girls were thrilled with the views unfolding around every corner and we made good time due to their keenness to see what was next. We passed Llyn (Lake) Llyddaw and Glaslyn (Blue Lake) and were just starting up the Zigzags, when we came upon a man and a young lad.



They were on their way down after an early start when the lad, his son, had twisted his ankle badly while running down the slope. The father had taken the lad’s boot off, the whole upper foot and ankle had swollen up and they couldn't put the boot back on. The father was just wondering what to do when we came into view.



The two looked the part, with the right clothes, hats, boots, and a bag with food and water, but they had no first aid kit. I took off my sack, found my first aid kit and put a tight wet bandage on the lad's foot. The lad was quite happy otherwise. I decided that it would be just as quick to help the lad back along the Miner’s Track as it would be to run down and call out the Rescue Group. There is only one bumpy part down from Glaslyn to Llyn Llyddaw, the rest is fairly smooth going so I knew that the lad would be safe.



It was agreed that Rod would carry on up slowly with the two girls while I helped the father to get his son down, then I’d go back up and join up with them.



The father and I helped the lad down to the shore of Glaslyn, had a rest, then took it in turns to support him on down the Miner’s Track. Finally we arrived back at the car park and the father decided to take the lad to the hospital himself. I left them to it and started up once more. By then it was almost mid-day.



As was usual by that time of day, there were a lot of people on the Miner’s Track, and it was sad to see the ladies slogging up in skirts and high-heels and the men in their best suits and winkle-picker shoes, each with expectancy written on their face as if the summit was just around the corner. One group even asked me why I was wearing heavy clothing and boots. No doubt they had understood the reason if they reached the bottom of the Zigzags in one piece.



I plodded back up past the lakes, then on up the Zigzags and eventually met the other three on the ridge between Yr Wyddfa and Crib-Y-Ddysgl. They’d been to the summit, had lunch, had a good look round and were on their way down.



The girls were brimming with elation and keenness so I suggested that we carry on down via Crib Goch, explaining about the very sharp Crib Goch ‘knife-edged’ Ridge that we would have to negotiate (although I didn’t always mention the fact to novices, there is an escape route if the need arises - a slightly lower path where the ridge can be very safely by-passed), and the girls had agreed to give it a go. We’d all gone over Crib-Y-Ddysgl, carried on to the Crazy Pinnacles, easily negotiated the ‘knife-edge’ across to the summit of Crib Goch, then had dropped down to the Pyg Track, and so to the car.



By then the girls had been very tired, but they’d said that it had been more than worth-while. They took our addresses and, as arranged, their parents were waiting at Capel Curig when we dropped them off. The parents said that we were only half an hour late, but that they hadn't really been worried because they knew the girls were in good hands (the fools). But it was nice to have some satisfied 'customers'. Rod and I had headed home, both agreeing that it had been a real worth-while trip.



The girls wrote to us for a while and, by the sounds of it, became accomplished fell (hill) walkers, but our paths were never to cross again. We also corresponded with the two Yorkshire Rangers for a spell, then gradually lost touch as we all moved around. And I never did hear how the father and son got on.



As for young David, I sent a big parcel of adventure books up to him in Bangor hospital, but I never heard anything back from him (Oh! to be young!). Nevertheless, the Rangers, who kept in touch with the teacher, wrote and told me some of the news.



It turned out that, while David was in hospital, he'd passed blood in his urine. Apparently he’d had a dormant kidney disease that may have killed him before the age of forty had it not been for the accident or something similar. Happily he recovered, but I was never to hear any more of him.



As previously mentioned, I've now been involved in many rescues since, but never three in as many days as occurred on that weekend - and it all happened to me because I didn’t want to sit at home and mope about.



Don’t waste your precious life on following the paths to drugs, crime, boredom, frustration, and useless exploits - be determined, get out, meet good people, and have some real-life & worthwhile adventures to remember!

The Jungle Stories

Pankaj and I decided that it would be a good idea to come back to our rest house in Gairal straight after lunch. We’d experienced as much excitement as we could have ever hoped for, the night before. Today we were back by half past three and after relaxing for around ten minutes, made our way down to the rocky bank of the Ganga river. Our intention was to just relax and soak in all the freshness and tranquility nature could offer us. We sat around quietly observing the birds and deer on the opposite side, occasionally taking a couple of sips of the crystal clear water of the river to sooth our parched throats on this warm summer afternoon. We must have been sitting there for around an hour when the first of our good friends from the night before made his appearance . Fortunately he was at a safer distance this time of around a 100 yards.



As his huge form glided across the shallow river and small rocks, we observed a few more Elephants and Lion appear from the same direction but a little further away. The first one by then had already crossed the river and was now directly opposite us. He was moving on down river towards the grasslands beyond the mound to the left. As he trundled along the other bunch had reached closer to the point where he had crossed over. It was a huge bunch. Enough of them to make it almost impossible for us to count how many. We later totaled them to be forty seven. As they crossed over too, two of the youngsters in a playful mood ran across, one chasing the other. The one if front let out a loud trumpeting sound in excitement as his chaser got closer. There was an immediate reaction from the lone tusker ahead, who by now had almost reached the mound. He obviously had not noticed the following bunch till then. He now swung around to face herd. He was still a good two hundred yards from them. He put his trunk up in the air to pick up the herd’s scent probably. He then slowly started making his way back towards them.



The three youngsters still played on. They’d given up the game of catch me if you can and were now trying out their strength against each other. They stood face against face with their hind legs braced. Push - push - push. We thought none of them had noticed the approach of the huge lone bull elephant, now only 50 yards away. We were obviously wrong because from close to the rear of the group came this bellowing sound followed by a lot of dust being raised. Once the dust cleared a bit, we could see the herd had it’s own bull who was obviously their leader. He stood facing the approaching outsider with his ears spread out and trunk pointed in the oncomer’s direction. He looked in a really bad mood and very menacing. The first elephant slowed down his approach. Then stopped and hesitated a bit before resuming his approach. This seemed to be last straw for the leader as he trumpeted with all his might. This was followed by a sound that was something like a huge diesel generator about to explode, amplified ten times over. This was enough to scare even his own herd, most of whom also joined in the yelling. They all seemed to know what was going to follow because they all quickly cleared the area between the two huge tuskers. Encouraged by the effect of his bellow on his own herd and on the oncoming challenger, who had now stopped in his tracks, he raised his tail up in the air like a little antennae and literally sprinted off towards the threat. The challenger obviously lost his nerve, for he swung around and took to his heels in the direction he had come from. Somehow these amazing giants with nothing but destruction on their minds looked almost comical. Both running with their tails straight up in the air, actually looking rather strange moving at such high speeds. We were expecting to witness a fight of mammoth proportions but unfortunately the speed of the leading elephant took them over the mound before the pursuer could catch up. All we saw was a lot of dust going up in the air with a lot of yelling and bellowing. Strangely though, the rest of the herd seemed totally calm and unaffected now, looking more busy eating the abundant grass and drinking the same water as us.



After around six minutes the leader appeared once again over the mound. You could actually tell from his gait that he had been victorious over his challenger. He strutted his way back to the herd and drank some water along with them. He then made his way back towards the rear and found himself a deep pool of water in which he seemed to mellow in his moment of victory. He stayed there for almost half an hour, immersed totally out of sight at times. We were just wondering what had become of the other bull when he appeared once again but far down river this time. He was close to the path where cars in the park crossed over the river bed to go in the direction of Dhikala. This was the area we had been surrounded by this very herd the previous night. He stood there, clearly sulking and very angry. After sometime, while we were looking in the direction of the herd, he disappeared from the spot and that was the last we saw of him for the evening. I said "saw" of him, not heard of him.



Once the loser of the duel had moved out of sight from where we were sitting, he had doubled around along the car path leading up to the other side of the rest house. Unfortunately, next to the loghuts where we were staying, were parked two cars. One that belonged to us and the other to a group occupying the other log huts. We had planned to park the cars within the main rest house compound before dark that evening. As our angry elephant was making his way past the loghuts, unnoticed by anyone but the other groups maid, his attention was drawn by these vehicles by the side of his path. He obviously found it a good way to vent his anger on something. So taking a good grip at the rear of the other group’s car, lifted the rear wheel clear off mother earth to height of around three to four feet. I think his plans were to dump this car onto our’s and then probably play soccer with car sandwich. Anyway, to the rescue of our cars came the heroine of the trip. The other group’s maid, a local villager woman. On seeing her employer’s car being used as a toy, she came rushing out and tried to drive the beast away by shooing it away as they did cattle back in her village. Luckily there was a pit between her and the elephant, who anyway seemed to have let out enough of his pent up anger. He let down the car with a thud, still the right side up. Taking one last look at this odd woman making strange sounds and jumping up and down in the same spot, he slowly moved away, Sniffing at his own tattered and bleeding ear. We at this moment were watching a third group of elephants approaching from further upriver. It was a herd even larger than the earlier one. We wondered what was going to happen now when the two herds came face to face. Fortunately or unfortunately, this herd numbering way over sixty, took a different route and disappeared over a hill on the opposite bank to the right. It was now beginning to get a little dark and we decided to make our way back to our room. As we crossed the area between the main resthouse and our loghut, we were startled by a startled wild boar who grunted his disapproval and scurried off into the undergrowth. We got back to our loghut, which was more a cement hut actually, washed up a bit before sitting down in the balcony with some snacks and cool drinks.

Charge of the Tigers

As we all sat finishing lunch at Bijrani, we discussed who all would go for the elephant ride among the eight of us. The elephant was the best way to see the jungle and the chances of spotting a tiger were best from one. Finally it was decided that Kookie, Valerie, Arnab and Vasu would go as the rest of us had already been before on earlier visits. Actually Romel hadn’t been before but said he’d rather be with Shayne, Suryo and me in the Gypsy. The Gypsy is a four wheel drive. A lady in Delhi had been kind enough to lend it to us for the trip.



So, with lunch out of the way and nicely rested, the two groups set out on their respective rides. We left a little after the elephant rides had gone but were still the first vehicle to enter the main forest. As we drove very slowly down the jungle track, everyone spoke in hushed tones. The late afternoon sun gave the forest a very warm look with a lot of contrast between the dark and light areas. The area we were driving through was very green and the path we were on actually lead to Sasi, where we were staying on this trip.



The weather was perfect with the warm sunshine balanced by a lovely cool breeze.



As we rolled on on this seemingly perfect day, we discussed the coming new year which began the next day. We were now entering a slightly more dense part of the jungle and we noticed something small and dark absolutely in the middle of the track. On getting closer we saw it was out first hint of the presence of a tiger in the nearby vicinity. It was scat or in other words, tiger droppings. We looked around in all directions from the Gypsy and noticed where the pug marks of the animal came out of the bushes and undergrowth onto the track. We began the process of moving on very slowly, simultaneously tracking the tell tale signs of the progress of the most beautiful animal in these jungles. Although, sometimes one feels the leopard gives the tiger excellent competition where good looks are concerned.



From the pug marks we could make out that it was quite a large specimen. Although none of us were expert enough to be able to tell whether it was male of female. The tension and excitement was now rapidly building. All chatter had completely stopped. Sign language was now the primary means of communication. Soon we came upon a fork and followed the track to the left, sticking with the prints. I could make out that the prints now were very fresh as the edges were very sharp and had not yet been dulled by the effect of wind. This sent the expectations in everyone’s heart of spotting the tiger soaring higher than ever before. Then all of a sudden, the animal seemed to have taken a sudden turn to the right and gone straight into the thickest part of the jungle which even sight could not penetrate. We contemplated what we should do. Should we retreat a bit and wait. Maybe it had gone into the shrubs when it heard us approaching. We were just discussing what we should do when we heard a monkey give a warning call from the jungle further right. This confirmed the presence of the tiger but seemed to be further than we had estimated. We wondered what to do when Shayne said it would be worth a try to back-track a bit and take the other path from the fork. We all thought this was a good idea since it seemed pointless to wait here. The tiger was obviously not hanging around and moving away from us.



We were soon on the other path to the right from the fork with all eyes peeled for any kind of movement. Nothing moved. We stopped and waited a while to listen for any clues. No sounds at all. Even the monkey had stopped warning the rest of the jungle inhabitants. We moved on slowly and after fifty yards or so, suddenly came upon the same pug marks. Once again emerging from the bushes and onto the track. Shayne drove very slowly keeping a keen lookout ahead while the two in the back seat scanned the jungle to either side. I kept track of the pug marks. We came up to some scratch marks on the path where the tiger had scratched the path and dug up quite a bit of dirt. It looked fresh. Really fresh. Just then Shayne called out in a low but very clearly audible voice," There, up ahead !!" I desperately searched the area ahead but initially saw absolutely nothing. " There !!!" Shayne said to me almost in desperation since I was the guy with the camera. The rest of us still couldn’t make out. Then it moved. When it had stood perfectly still, the dance of the warm sunlight and dark shadows had completely camoflaged it. Now we all saw it. It was a beautifull tigress. She was huge. As we stopped and watched her in total awe, she decided we weren’t a threat and came back to the track and began climbing the hill ahead. I can never forget that sight. She looked so incredibly powerful from that angle. As she went around the corner, we waited a while before restarting the engine and creeping slowly in persuit. We saw her as soon as we rounded the bend. She was still walking down the track and had gone around 50 yards ahead. Since the path ahead was visible for almost another fifty yards or more, we stayed in the same place watching this most amazingly graceful, beautiful and powerful being move majestically down the track. We again watched her disappear around the next bend. Repeating the same procedure as before we approached the corner after we were sure she would have gone a good distance ahead. We wanted to ensure that we didn’t startle or irritate her by getting too close all of a sudden.



We slowly moved around the corner, expecting to see her around another fifty yards ahead. We were in for a surprise because she was standing only around 20 yards ahead and facing us. As she saw us come around the bend, she moved off into the bushes by the left side of the road. We initially stopped for a moment but decided it would be better if we drove past. We had been honoured with a brilliant sighting of over 20 minutes already and didn’t want to disturb her into a bad mood. As we came abreast with the bush she had gone into, we peared in trying to see if she had gone up the hillside covered with bushes or whether she was waiting for us to go by. Initially we felt she must have gone because we saw nothing but twigs, branches and leaves. Then we saw the eyes. They were the only part of her that was visible. The rest was hidden by the most amazing display of camouflaging any of us had ever seen. Just then we heard a lot of noise from behind us. Around a hundred yards behind was a ten seater jeep with more than twenty people coming towards us. Most of the people were half hanging out and screaming at the top of their voices. I think I remember one of them singing too. We were absolutely horrified and decided the best thing to do was to quickly reverse and stop a bit away from the tiger. We pretended to be looking for something inside the Gypsy because we knew that if these people saw the tigress, it would be chaos. We could see a few people had small sticks in their hands and somehow had this strange intution that these might be flung at any animal to create a spectacle. I think the driver had seen where we had been previously parked and was a little suspicious of what we had been doing there. He parked exactly two feet from the bush, the tigress had gone into and asked the guy hanging out of the left side to check if he saw anything. The guy peered straight into the bush, his face almost brushing the leaves. He saw nothing. We were just planning to warn them about the danger when I guess they decided we hadn’t seen anything and were just hanging around for nothing. As they moved off the guy to the rear left, I think as an expression of disgust or maybe a last ditch effort to make sure there was nothing there, flung a small stick into the bush. We decided the tigress must definitely have moved up the hillside for them not to have seen her or for her not to have reacted to all the provocation and irritation.



As the din of the jeep and it’s passengers disappeared over the hill, we contemplated where we should head for next. We needn’t have bothered because out of the very same bush came our miss world. She turned and gave us a glance and then headed slowly up the path towards the bend between her and us. Soon she was out of sight to us. We all waited with abaited breath to see if she would come back on the path or whether she had taken some trail leading up the hill. I focused the camera on where I expected her to come out, if she did, and sat ready with my finger on the click button. Nothing happened. Half a minute went by and still nothing. Then I told Shayne to take over the camera as he had a better view of the area where she would come out, since he was on the right. Almost the very next second I heard him whisper."she’s coming !". He had seen her just peep around the corner and take a quick look at us. I heard him click a snap and saw him lower the camera to get a direct look at her. The moment he did that and made eye contact with her, he saw her flatten her ears, get a wild look in the eyes and suddenly pull away out of sight again. I looked in the direction he was indicating but my sight was obstructed by the hillside around which the track went. Suddenly, I felt the camera being shoved into my hands and Shayne was all movement. One hand was going for the ignition while the other handed me the camera."She’s coming for us ! I can’t see her but she’s upto something !!" I quickly focused on the spot I had before around 30 yards ahead and waited. Mistake !! Suddenly there was a roar that sounded like it was emenating from a quadraphonic system in a discotheque. It was louder than anything i’d heard ! Then she came around the bend just fifteen feet ahead of us at a speed that blurred the vision. Even running at that speed she kept so low that she seemed almost painted on the ground.



She was coming straight for us! Teeth bared and with fire in her eyes ! Shayne was also a blur of movement as he turned the ignition key and simultaneously tried to find reverse. In the chaos his elbow bumped the horn and there was a short beep just as the tigress was about to pounce. I think this kind of startled her, as instead of coming straight for us, she just deflected herself off the front and went to the right. The impact of just this deflection was enough to lift the rear tyres of the Gypsy off the ground. The jolt made my finger press the shutter release of the camera. This photograph turned out to be just a flash of green inter-spersed by a few tell tale signs of black and white stripes. The entire time lapse, from the moment she came around the corner to the point where she entered the bushes below to our right, could not have been more than two to three seconds ! We watched her move through the bushes away from us, finally coming back on to the path ahead and continuing on to climb up th hill to the left.



We all sat there for a couple of minutes just excitedly looking at each other’s faces. Nobody managed to say a word for a while. Too much adrenaline !! Then we calmed down. I wished everyone a happy new year. Then we moved on. We went down the hill ahead and came down to a river bed. Here we came to a T-junction and decided to turn left to head back and pick up the others. As we had gone around a hundred yards down the sandy track, I saw a leaf rustle around halfway up the hillside to the left. Around twenty yards ahead, I asked Shayne to turn the Gypsy around and stop. As we watched, we saw a few more leaves on the bushy slope move. The line of movement was aimed straight at a point just fifteen feet ahead of us. Two minutes later, there she was again! As she came out, she stopped and looked at us once more. I’m sure she recognised us. Without any sign of being bothered, she turned away and walked down the path. Soon she turned to the left and headed across the grassland that lead up to the river. We moved to a spot from where we could see her going. If we wanted we could easily have followed her but I think we’d seen enough and all realised that it would be wrong to persue her any more. So as she walked off, we drove back to pick up the others.



We had thought of breaking the news to them, about our most amazing experience, slowly that night but none among the four of us could keep it inside us for even a minute. So we all cackled away simultaneously. Much to the disgust of the others who had gone on the elephant only in hope of spotting their first tiger in the wild. For us, it was an experience that still makes the goose bumps rise. Not out of fear but out of envy, admiration and awe for this close to perfect being the world calls a tiger.